timistravels

This was not a work trip but rather a time for friends and family.  However, I did have the opportunity to visit some amazing places that I thought i would share here.

Flew from Juneau to Seattle on Wed. 5/9 spent the night at a hotel then flew from met friends Seneca and Kathleen at the Seattle airport in the morn and flew to Medford, OR.  This is the closet airport that AK AIR flies to, so to get to our destination of Ginny’s in Eureka, CA.

It actually was a beautiful drive through Grant’s Pass and then along the coast line.  We enjoyed the sites and the warm weather, as we all left cooler days in AK.

On Friday Ginny took us on a drive south and hiked in the Redwoods, they were beautiful and you will see some shots attached.  We stopped in small town of Loleta, CA for lunch and a stop at a cheese factory!  On Saturday we  went to the Arcadia Farmers Market, roamed the streets of town, ate at a crepe place (YUMMY) and ended the day with a hike into Patrick’s Point State Park where we sat for a few hours enjoying the sunshine and the ocean but mostly the company!

Sunday had us heading out early and back towards Medford.  It was quite foggy in the morning but once we got away from the coastline the sunshine returned.  Katheleen and Seneca hopped on a 2:00 flight back to the Great White North and I began my drive to Seattle.

Next Stop; Eugene for time with my niece, nephew and sister-in-law!  It was Mandy’s 20th bday and Matt’s 22 so that was a great time to be there.  Also drove to Monmouth for the day on Monday to spend some time with good friend Paula.  What an amazingly beautiful home she has!  she and her husband re-did an old school house and it is so amazing!

Tuesday I spend with family in Eugene but Wed. headed N to Portland to visit more fam and friends.  This time Jennifer and Megan and I  met for dinner.  Good old laughs with good old friends.

Thursday was full of surprises as I got to visit some of Harry’s family (cousin and 2nd cousins).  Morgan and Jason are 8 yr. old twins and I surprised them getting off the school bus, what joy kids bring to each day!  We went to a local pub for dinner and Carol (Harry’s cousin, their grandma) joined us which was really special.

Friday I headed on the last leg of the trip, Portland to Seattle.  I have done this one a lot, but it is always a nice casual ride.  I got to stop this time in Tacoma to have lunch with friend Heather, and her daughter Caroline and husband Kevin.  Arrived to good friends Zan and Monica about 4 so a lot of time to play with the girls (Sage 3.5 and Lola 1.5).  What energy and what fun!

Spent the later part of the night with my cousin Karen and her family, always fun!  Saturday was full of time with them, a visit to the part, Nolan’s ball game and finally a fun night out for me as I took Ruby and Nolan to dinner!

Sunday I was up and going as my flight left at 11 a.m.  I got home at 12:30 and was immediately bummed that the May weather that I typically love in JNU was not there and it was cold and drizzly, AND the fact that I had left 80+ weather in Seattle.  Oh well, regardless I was glad to be home, AS ALWAYS.

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This was my third visit to Kake this school year.  I went in Sept. (29-30) to work on some community engagement work as well as do a workshop with their school board.  It was my first visit to Kake and I really loved the community.  Over the years when I worked at the University in Juneau (UAS), I have had a lot of students that were from Kake.  They were always very proud of their community and continuously invited me down there to visit Kake and meet their families,  I finally made it.

As per most Tlingit communities in SE Alaska Kake is set in a beautiful location.  It is tucked into island such that the weather doesn’t beat on the community.  The sun shines (a lot more than it was in Juneau as I left) often and it gets less rain than most of SE.  The Tlingit people have lived in the area for thousands of years and were known as being strong and powerful individuals and indeed they are.

Kake has a totem pole that is 128-foot tall.  At one time it was the largest, carved totem in the world, though there is now one larger.  It was carved in 1967.  (see photo).

There is a High School/Middle School building and an elementary school building.  They are near each other so it is easy to go back and forth between the buildings.  The community has a health center, a senior center, fire station, cannery, hatchery, grocery store and more!  The Alaska Marine Highway ferry system goes to Kake a few times a month, so many people bring a vehicle to Juneau, fill it with goods and take it back home!  Shopping at its best!

This spring during my 2 visits I helped them find a new superintendent, which means I will have one more trip there this fall, hopefully in Aug. I would love to get here in July when they do their Dog Salmon Festival where the community shares and celebrates their long history with fishing!

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I have been to Sitka several times since moving to Alaska in 1996, and even lived there from Jan-May 1997 working for the University of AK Southeast~Sitka for those months.  Sitka has a wonderful history and it shines through even today.  Sitka sits out on the open coast and is typically 5-10 degrees warmer than Juneau, so spring was really in the air when I was there April 10 and 11 to work with Pacific High School, the alternative HS in town.

The City and Borough of Sitka is located on the west side of Baranof Island and the southern half of Chichagof Island in the Alexander Archipelago of the Pacific Ocean (part of the Alaska Panhandle. There are about 8000 people that live there, and it is one of Alaska’s bigger cities! The borough is the second largest incorporated city by area in the U.S., with a total area of 4,811.5 square miles (12,461.7 km²), with 2,874.0 square miles!

Sitka is a beautiful community on the sea.  They have an amazing arts program each summer for youth, the beautiful Totem Park to explore native totems, a raptor center that takes in birds (eagles mostly) that are ill or physically unable to care for themselves, and a large population of fisherman who love the land where they live!  Both the US Park Service, US Forest Service, and Coast Guard are in town as well as the UAS campus.  Along with the school district, South East Alaska Regional Health Consortium (SEARHC) is the biggest employers.

One other noteworthy institution in Sitka is Mt. Edgecumbe High School.  I worked with staff at MEHS for 6 years and love the school.  It is a PUBLIC, statewide, boarding HS and up to 400 youth attend each year.  Students come from all across the state to attend the school and the graduates of MEHS (mostly Alaskan Native) go on to many of our states leaders in every imaginable profession!  It is a great school.  I even got to do the commencement speech there one year!

Some interesting history on Sitka:

The name Sitka comes from the Tlingit word meaning “People on the outside of Shee” and Shee was what the Tlingit’s called Baranof Island.

The Tlingit people have been in the area now known as Sitka for over 10,000 years.  However in 1799 Aleandr Baranov the governor of Russia America made this area a colonial trading area.  Battles ensued between the Tlingit’s and the Russians in 1802 and many Russians were killed or taken as slaves.  I found this about the next attack in 1827:

“The new Russian palisade atop “Castle Hill” that surrounded the Governor’s Residence had three watchtowers, armed with 32 cannons, for defense against Tlingit attacks.  Baranov returned to Sitka in 1804 with a large contingent of Russians and Aleuts with the Russian warship Neva. The ship bombarded the Tlingit fort but was not able to cause significant damage. The Russians then launched an attack on the fort and were repelled by Tlingit fighters and marksmen. However, the Tlingit gunpowder reserves had been lost before the Russian assault and the Tlingit were forced to leave the fort.

Following their victory at the Battle of Sitka the Russians established a permanent settlement in the form of a fort, named Novoarkhangelsk (Новоархангельск), or New Archangel, a reference to Arkhangelsk, the largest city in the region where Baranov was born. The Tlingit re-established a fort on the Chatham Strait side of Peril Strait to enforce a trade embargo with the Russian establishment. In 1808, with Baranov still governor, Sitka was designated the capital of Russian America.

Sitka was the site of the ceremony in which the Russian flag was lowered and the United States flag raised after Alaska was purchased by the United States in 1867 after the sea otter pelt trade died out. The flag lowering and raising ceremony is re-enacted in Sitka every October 18, known locally as Alaska Day.   Alaska’s first newspaper following the Alaska Purchase, The Sitka Times, was published by Barney O. Ragan on September 19, 1868. Only four issues were published that year, as Ragan cited a lack of resources available at the time. The paper resumed publishing the following year as the Alaska Times. In 1870, it moved to Seattle, where the year following it was renamed the Seattle Times (not to be confused with the modern-day newspaper of the same name). Sitka served as the capital of the Alaska Territory until 1906, when the seat of government was relocated north to Juneau.”

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March 29/30

After a week at home (which included our June Nelson Scholarship selection day and our Fly-In where board members come to Juneau to talk to their legislators), I was off and running again.  This trip was to Kenai where I would have the honor of working with some amazing young leaders in this state!  I have helped with the Rotary Youth Leadership 7 out of the last 9 years, missing one when Harry and I were out of the country on our Panama Canal Cruise and the other last year when I tore my ACL.

This years group was one of the best ever!  I had a great time with them AND I was so exhausted when I arrived home on Friday night that Saturday was almost a bust… but I have recovered and am enjoying a beautiful spring day here.

Kenai/Soldotna are about a 3.5 hour drive south of Anchorage and about a 20 minute flight, I opted for the flight.  RYLA was held at a camp in the woods right off the main highway, but if felt like we were hours away from civilization.  On Thursday we started off with hours of getting to know each to know one another activities.  Within no time the youth and adult volunteers were laughing, talking and having a great time.

Friday was full of more content workshops on personality styles, diversity, ethical decision making and defining a leader.  The pictures I have posted are from the activity on Building a Leader.

Though both days were in the high 40’s there is still a lot of snow as you can see in the pics.

A good time was had by all.

Friday, March 9, 2012

This entry is written backwards from the last day to the first, because the last day was the most fun and interesting, starting off with watching the moon set over the Bering Sea (see picture) followed by lots of activities, including a tour of the Largest Crab Processing Plant in the World, Trident on St. Paul Island.

The film crew from “Deadliest Catch” was on site the same day filming the Wizzard as it came into off load crab.  Here are some of the facts of this plant:

• Crab are off loaded alive because if they die, they must be frozen within 60 minutes or they go bad.
• During this, the high season for crab, they will process 50,000 to 500,000 pounds of crab in one day (up to a 16 hour shift).
• To start off the crab are lifted from the boat in big barrel looking tubs and,
• 7-8 workers in the ‘hole’ putting the crab into the ‘braibers’ and then into the hoppers, there are 6 hoppers with 2 conveyor belts on each side of the door where live crab are placed.
• As the live crab move on the conveyor belt they are killed, these machines do 40 crab a minute
• After this they are “butchered”, where core body shells are blown leaving the legs and other edible parts to continue with.
• Once the pieces are separated by grade (low, medium and high quality by size), they are placed in metal containers that hold about 45 pounds.
• Each container is lowered into boiling water and cooked for 18.5 minutes for tanner/snow crab.  (if it were king crab that needs to cook for 25 minutes).
• After it is cooked it is first dropped into salt water.
• After the salt water it is then placed in ½ salt ½ fresh water,
• Finally, it is lowered into water that is -3 degrees  and b/c salt is in water will not freeze!
• It is then moved on another belt to a location where the 45#’s are placed in blue plastic bags and ultimately in a box.
• The boxes are stacked and put in huge freezer.
•  6000-8000, 45# boxes are done in one day.
• To do all of this work they need 320 staff, most of them are from foreign countries as there is not a lot of luck recruiting people in the states.
• Workers live and eat on site, (they have dorm like living quarters and cafeteria style eating).
• The workers pay for their housing and food in advance of arriving to the job, BUT if they remain during the entire season they get all that money back.

All of these steps are highlighted  in the pictures.

I have a video of the Wizzard trying to get into the harbor, it tried for over an hour but had to pull back out eventually due to the current, tide and amount of ice in the harbor.  It made me sea sick just watching the boat as the water was causing the boat to rock so badly.

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Thursday March 8, 2012

Though the weather on Wed. was great, the weather today was terrible, a blizzard hit the island and 55+ MPH winds were blowing and there was a total white out.  School was called off and we had to wait until Mac, the district go to guy could come pick us up and take us to the school.

Interviews went most of the day, lunch was ‘fish pie’ a local favorite, halibut, rice, corn, bacon, all in a crust.  YUMMY.

As the day progressed, the weather improved and we were invited to have dinner at the Trident plant cafeteria (where the workers eat).  Since there is no ‘restaurant’ in town, this was about the closest we could get and it was a nice dinner.

The best part of the day was the sunset, which there are photos of!  Sunset around 8:15 p.m.

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

In the morning I met up with the three candidates for the superintendents position at the ANC airport.  My supervisor was flying in from Fairbanks with 2 candidates that had interviewed the day before in a district up north.  The 3rd candidate flew in the day before from MT.

At 11:45 our flight was a ‘go’ and we were all headed to the boarding area, UNTIL the announcement came over the system: St. Paul flight is on hold currently, we will update you at 12:30, as currently we don’t have a crew  WHAT????!!!! So, Tasky Timi grabbed my phone and emailed my new contact at Pen Air asking him, how once again there was not a crew for a scheduled flight, indicating I would like a call.  Within 3 minutes the ‘mucky muck, big wig’ called and said he could not believe it and he would get back to me within 10 minutes.  He did and informed me that the crew was on its way in and we would be off the ground by 12:30.  Well, we were boarding around 12:30 and off by 12:50, but at least we go the ball rolling.  I reminded him how URGENT the flight on Friday would be because of the company that was joining me… candidates for a job that only 1 would be offered.!  He said he would call me on Friday and keep in touch as to the status of the flight!  He will regret the day he gave me his # and email 🙂

We stopped in Dillingham for fuel and then took off for St. Paul.  As we landed it was a PERFECT March day here! Sunshine, blue sky etc.  We of course all joked that it was like this all the time here (not!).

Dinner with the board and candidates was a Costco based meal, and all loved it.  I brought fresh veggies, lettuce, tomatoes, etc for a salad… big hit!  Then after dinner was a community forum for all and anyone to attend and meet the candidates, it too was successful.

Funniest parts of the day:

1. using a district vehicle  I was headed to my place (teacher housing, VERY nice), and I could NOT make it up a hill.  I had to go in reserve down the hill, and tried again with no luck.  Tried an alternative road and same luck, I could not get the 150 truck up the hill.  Came into the school with my head hung low until we realized that the right front tire was almost flat!

2. at the end of the evening I took the same truck with a newly filled tire and headed home, with the female candidate who was also staying at the housing unit with me.  However we could NOT find the house, we drove around and around and around, drove by the superintendents home 4 times until I finally stopped to ask for help. How do I mange to travel the world and not get lost but on an island of 400 + people I can’t find my house! craziness!

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If you watch Deadliest Catch (I have never watched it) you may have heard of St. Paul Island, where I find myself tonight after many, many hours of traveling. One of the first people I was shown in the airport was one of the captains, leaving the island for a bit, however, I did not recognize him b/c again, I don’t watch the show.

Started off the morning with a 1.5 hour flight from Juneau to ANC, followed by a lot of wait time in ANC.  Once in the boarding area for my flight to St. Paul (Pen Air) I was almost sure I wasn’t going to make it in,  A HUGE winter storm was heading towards the island but I was wrong as here now as I sit in the school.    Winds are blowing over 50 MPH and it is cold.  We had such a strong head wind flying out here; we had to stop in Dillingham (see earlier blog on that community) and refuel.  It took over 3.5 flying hours to get out here!  How far would you be across the country if you flew 3.5 hours?  I am 880 miles west of Anchorage and only 500 miles east of Siberia, Russia (less to the waterways of Russia) while I write this!

I landed and they were in such a hurry to get the plane off the ground and headed back to ANC that it took almost 1 hour for the 12 of us that flew here to get our luggage, but mine all made it!  As Mack, the man that took me to the school (along with Dan a teacher and John a refrigerator sales man) drove we were all blinded by the TOTAL white out caused by the winds and the blowing snow.  (I now am wondering why a refrigerator repairman is needed as it is sooooo cold here I can’t see the need now J).

Dan is a 2^nd year teacher here, he and his wife (also a teacher) are originally from Michigan, huge MI State Spartan fans and most ironically, Amanda his wife went to Aquinas College, 4 years after I worked there, but still… that is pretty ‘small world’ if you ask me.

I went immediately to my meeting with the board and did not get a chance to even use the restroom; however, now it is 3.5 hours after we started the meeting and we are not even close to being done!  That is how tough it can be to select a new superintendent!    UPDATE, it ended almost 5 hours after we started.  WOW.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Because there are no planes that fly on Thursday I must stay until tomorrow and that flight does not leave til 4:15 p.m.  I will get a lot of work done since so far I have Internet and it is quiet in the School District apartment.  Though at 5 this a.m. as I was coming out of the rest room I ran into the guy staying in one of the other rooms.  This is how we roll in rural AK.  He’s here working at the radio station, AND no one told him to bring food.  Hence he spent $70+ on items over at the AC store, enough for a few days.  See my pictures for the cost of some common day items.

Spent most of the day calling potential candidates for the superintendent job, arranging their flights and working on stuff I need to get to them, so the windy and cold weather didn’t bother me too much as I sat inside.  I eventually took a walk but it was still windy and cold and it indeed was cold.  The blizzard was to subside around 5 so hope tomorrow is better when I want to fly. There is a common saying on the islands: “This is the only place in the world where you can experience all four seasons in one hour.”

A little bit of information about St. Paul Island:

• No fewer than 248 species of birds have been spotted on the island. In spring, (May?) many rare birds are seen on the island.
• Other interesting sites on the island are the fur seal rookeries, the males stake their spot our in late May and wait for the females to come!  If I were here after May 31 I would not be allowed to go to the rookeries, but rather only view the action from some blinds that have been built for viewing.
• There are no dogs allowed on the island… mostly b/c of the birds.
• However, there are grey fox that are rather pesky at times getting into garbage and leftovers at the processing plant.
• Saint Paul is the largest of the Pribilof Islands and lies the furthest north.,
• It is just over 7.6 miles wide at its widest axis and 13.5 miles and has a total area of 43 square miles.
• The island was created by a volcano and so there are many cinder cones and volcanic craters on the island, the highest is Rush Hill about 650 feet above sea level.

Friday, March 2, 2012

I was to fly out at 4:15 p.m. but around 10 a.m. I found out that Pen Air had canceled the flight, NOT due to weather but because they did not have a crew, or as I was told later because of a mechanical.  I sent an email stating my concerns and received this from the Chief Operating Officer!  We spoke, but I still don’t have high hopes.

Timi,
Scott Bloomquist asked me to try to contact you, I don’t see a cell number in your email. Please email or call me back and I’d like to see what we can do to make amends to you for screwing up your trip.

So I walked (slid) around town a bit, school, museum, etc, took some pictures and enjoyed the sunshine even if it wasn’t that warm yet.  I went to the school board meeting in the evening and spent the night back at the apt. reading and talking to Harry on the phone.  Thank goodness the apartment has a phone and internet.

Saturday,  March 3, 2012

At 7:30 p.m. I finally left the island and got to Anchorage at 10:30… I will got home Sunday morning, but will turn around and head back to St. Paul on Wed.  Hope the traveling goes better that time!